Valentia Island – Ireland’s Most Westerly Island

Even the most experienced Ireland travelers in our family weren’t familiar with Valentia Island. When we received a request from a Workaway host in the area, we had to take to Google Maps to verify its location. The most westerly island in Ireland, Valentia island has soon become one of our top Irish recommendations. It was here that I began to believe in the luck of the Irish.

We spent two weeks here helping out with organic gardening and the building of a new apartment. Located on the Ring of Kerry, this island seems to be little known but if you are passing through it is well worth the visit. On one of our days off from work, we rented bicycles and self-toured the entire island.

Getting there

Located in the south west of Ireland, between the major cities of Galway and Cork, Valentia Island is just off the Ring of Kerry. By bus, we arrived in the neighboring town of Cahersiveen. From there, you must take the short ferry ride to the island. The ferry takes cars and pedestrian passengers alike. It runs back and forth all day long during the high season (April – October). The most we ever had to wait for the next ride was about 10 minutes and it will only set you back a few euros.

Where to Stay

Perhaps we are a bit biased as this was our base for the two weeks we spent in Valentia, but the Atlantic Villa B&B is a top-notch place to lay your head. By summer 2020, you may even get to stay in a room that was help built by yours truly. On the grounds you will find an organic garden, bees, chickens, and (if you’re lucky) a beautiful row of sunflowers to greet you each morning just outside your bedroom window. The best part about this property though has to be the hosts, Brian and Jackie, who are likely to serve you one of the best breakfasts you’ll encounter in all of Ireland. Atlantic Villa is located in Knightstown, just a quick walk up the street from the harbor which boasts 2 local pubs and a view that will leave your eyes smiling.

Tip : Ask for the seaweed bath!

Must-See Places on Valentia Island

Valentia Island, site of the first commercial transatlantic cable, is teeming with natural beauty, abundant in seafood, where to grab one of the “best” pints of Guinness, and home to some of the kindest people you will ever meet.

If you arrive by car you can use that to circle the island and see the sights, but beware of the especially narrow roads. Being carless ourselves, we opted to rent bikes for the day. If you choose to do the same, head to the Valentia Island Caravan and Camping grounds where you can pick up your ride. We had use of the bikes for the full day, including helmets and a padlock for only 15 euros each. It is recommended to call in advance to make sure they will have bikes available for pick-up.

Valentia Lighthouse at Cromwell Point

Don’t let the steep descent deter you from a visit to this still active lighthouse. For an entry fee of 5 euros per person you can explore the lighthouse and its surrounding barracks. While still active, the lighthouse is now fully automated. Matt and I could not get over the unbelievable view from the top.

Geokaun Mountains and Cliffs

Arriving to the ticket booth to access the cliffs, we took one look at where we were headed and decided to leave our bikes behind. Although it is only a short climb to the cliffs, it is a very steep one. For the 5 minutes upward, we were envious of all the passing cars. The view at the top was a nice reward for our efforts. We also chose this as the perfect picnic place to have our lunch. There is an opportunity for a longer hike here but we skipped that in favor of covering more ground over the course of the day.

Grotto and Slate Quarry

The sheer amount of slate here is something to marvel at. While it is actually famous for its use in the Paris Opera House, I think we nearly threw our necks out as we swiveled around imagining all the blocks of cheese we could serve up on the slate sheets found here. As we pedaled away from the quarry we came face-to-face with yet another stare-worthy view. It turns out when you’re on an island, the perfect view is never too far away. We had to pull over and take a few photos at this one.

The Candle Shop

While this shop was filled with some of the most beautiful candles, I have to admit I was a tad bit disappointed. You see, I originally read the map as “Candies” shop. When your legs are overworked and the only thing keeping them pedaling is the thought of gummy worms and handmade chocolates, it’s a bit of a let down to smell lavender and wax instead of sweet sugar floating through the air. Nonetheless, this shop is a definite must on your stay on Valentia Island. The candlemaker himself is onsite working in the back giving this place the most authentic feel. Warning: If you are on bike, the trek back up the hill to the main road will result in excessive sweatiness.

Discover The Skelligs

Unfortunately, we never took advantage of our close proximity to the Skelligs, but it is one of the most popular things to do from Valentia Island. With scenes from two Star Wars movies being filmed here, it is a big draw for tourists. Forgive me Darth Vader, for I have sinned. I have never seen a Star Wars movie. I know, heads are rolling (including my husband’s) but it is true. Anyway, if you’re a fan, this is the hot spot to include on any visit to the island.

Where To Grab A Drink

Boston’s Bar

A quick walk up from the ferry, Boston’s Bar is very popular among the locals and visitors alike. It is said that outside of the Guinness Open-Gate Brewery, this place is serving up one of the best pints in Ireland. We didn’t sample from enough bars to make the ultimate decision, but we can testify that Boston’s definitely makes a tasty proper pint.

The Royal Hotel Valentia

By night, step in to this favored hotel bar for a few pints – and if you are lucky – some live music too. The next morning, cure your hangover with an Irish coffee from here. You will wait a few minutes while it is prepared but believe us, it’s worth it.

Chapel Town & Portmagee

While circling the island on our bikes, we rewarded ourselves with a couple pints from the local bars in each of these towns. I can’t remember their names, but they exist. You’re never too far from your next Bulmer’s cider or Jameson neat.

Unfortunately, we don’t have any food recommendations from here as we mostly ate from the kitchen of our Workaway hosts. There are, however, several pubs on the island to grab a great meal. Being on an island, the seafood is fresh and well-prepared. Highly recommended by the locals was O’Neills The Point Seafood Bar. Of course, you can also grab the traditional fare of Guinness stew or shepherds pie at most spots.

Final Thoughts

The day we rented our bikes I lost my phone somewhere on the island. When we discovered it to be missing, we spent several hours tracing our steps and hoping for a miracle. Empty handed and disheartened, we returned back to the Atlantic Villa. Upon our return, Matt explained to our host, Jackie, what had happened and as it turns out, we received our miracle after all! Thanks to a community alert system, she had already been notified of a phone found on the island and turned into the local police station. By the next morning I not only had my phone back in my possession but a renewed faith in the luck of the Irish. Matt reminds me often how lucky I was and that in most corners of the world, it would have ended in a total loss. The people here are good people whose kindness we are most thankful for.

While we were lucky this time, it was a good reminder that one of the most important things you can take on your travels with you is insurance! We use World Nomads which covers everything from missing luggage, delayed flights, to health issues and accidents on the road. Never leave home without it. Use the box below to get a quote for your trip!

It is nearly impossible to visit Ireland without a stay in Dublin or Galway, but if you have the time, add a few days to your itinerary to explore Valentia Island too. Whether you choose to cycle the island as we did, go fishing, or just grab a few pints and admire the views of the harbor, this special place is worth a stopover.

Cheers friends,

Meagan and Matt