She is to Georgia what a cherry is to a sundae; What the star is to a Christmas tree; A crown to a queen. Mount Kazbek. This dormant stratovolcano, not without its share of legends, may only be the third highest peak in the country and the seventh highest in the Caucasus Mountains, but it is revered as a shining beacon. Mount Kazbek is a popular destination for mountaineers and camera-wielding tourists alike. We were regrettably lazy travelers on our first visit to Georgia, but vowed to explore more of the country on our return visit. Several countries and months of quarantine later, we kept our promise to ourselves as we set out to Kazbegi for a trek to Mount Kazbek.
Getting There
A lush landscape so vastly different from that of Tbilisi must take hours to reach. Many miles and moons away, we thought. We were prepared to smoosh into uncomfortable seating, knees crunched together, and endure a lengthy journey into the mountains. Not for “the gram” but an ounce of peace in our souls. We were befuddled yet grateful to learn peace was much closer than we anticipated. A quick 2-3 hour ride in a (still very smooshed) marshrutka and we’d be surrounded by the natural beauty of the wild Caucasus Mountains.
Grab a Bolt and make your way to Didube Bus Station. Upon arrival you’ll likely be greeted by helpful locals ready to point you towards the nearest buses heading to Kazbegi. If not, just wander around until you see a Kazbegi sign in one of the front windows.
The buses usually leave every hour, but may not depart until they reach full capacity.
Cost : 10 GEL (3 USD)
The Road to Kazbegi
The road to Kazbegi is known as the Georgian Military Highway and although the journey is short, there is plenty to observe along the way. Do your best to get a seat by a window and watch Georgia pass you by. The road will have you traversing alongside winding rivers, catching glimpses of the Zhinvali Reservoir, the Ananuri Fortress, and the ski town of Gudauri.
Georgia is home to a couple of the most dangerous roads in the world, and while the Georgian Military Highway isn’t one of them, there were a couple points along the journey that had us holding our breath. Mainly the steep, curvy mountainside roads along the Jvari Pass where our seemingly too confident driver weaved around without a care. Dodging roadside sheep and cows made us feel like we were in the real world version of Mario Kart, but we were so captivated by the scenery we didn’t even mind.
Arriving to Kazbegi
We arrived to the Kazbegi bus station in the late afternoon so our plans for the evening were pretty lax. Our first order of business was to grab a Kazbegi beer (because when in Rome) and a bite to eat at a local restaurant. Our white knuckle ride worked up a large appetite so we scarfed down plates of khinkali, lobiani, kebabs, and Georgian salad.
Afterwards, we simply wandered around the town absorbing the views of the Caucasus and admiring the towering Mount Kazbek looming over us. We may have stopped to pet stray donkeys along the way.
We walked along the river and it wasn’t long before we discovered an open field of horses. If you’re not into hiking, at least come for the scenery. The slower pace of being compared to the city coupled with the serene atmosphere is just so soothing. And the fresh, cool mountain air was a reprieve from the city smog.
We headed back to our home for the night as the sun went down and called it an early night, deciding we better conserve as much energy as possible for the following day. Occasionally we are responsible.
Trekking to Mount Kazbek
Chances are, you’ll also arrive too late in the day to begin any trek. It’s best to plan your itinerary in a way that allows enough time to start your hike early the next morning. We read that the hike to the glacier of Mount Kazbek takes anywhere from 6-9 hours, depending on your fitness level and how quickly you can make the climb. Using our previous hikes as a reference point, we knew we would probably take closer to the 9 hours. With that in mind, we woke up with the sun to get an early start.
What to Bring
Water water water. There is nowhere along the way to buy more, so make sure you pack enough and then a little extra on top of that. You might encounter a friend or two hoping for a drink.
Snacks. The elevation change and duration of the hike will definitely burn a lot of calories, so make sure to bring enough to keep your body fueled. There are a couple of little markets in town where you can buy bars, fruit, nuts, etc., but be mindful that they may not be open if you leave too early in the morning.
Layers. The temperature changed frequently throughout our hike. As we climbed higher, it became a bit chillier. But by the the time we reached our end point, we were downright cold! Whereas during the steepest points of our climb we were getting overheated and sweaty. So, layers.
Gergeti Trinity Church
The most iconic view in all of Georgia is the Gergeti Trinity Church. This monastery sits high in the mountains overlooking Kazbegi. From the ground, its juxtaposition to Mount Kazbek makes it appear tiny in stature, but up close it’s grandeur cannot be underestimated. The surrounding views had us feeling like we were stranding in the middle of a Bob Ross painting. It’s no wonder the locals make the trek up to this remote location to say their prayers and celebrate life defining moments.
In our short stay, we were greeted by a group of cheerful, older ladies who were waiting on family members to arrive for a surprise engagement. The joy in the air was palpable and we wish we could’ve stayed to watch the celebration, but we had to move forward with our own journey.
If the Trinity Gergeti Church is as far as you wish to hike during your stay in Kazbegi, at least consider climbing slightly beyond, if even for just a few photos from a different perspective. It is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever traveled.
If you’re not into hiking at all, there is now a road where cars can drive from Kazbegi town to the church. There will likely be drivers at the bottom in Kazbegi that are more than willing to give you a lift. We’re not sure how much that costs (we prefer to punish our bodies), but do expect to pay a premium.
Our Trekking Guides : Smoke & Scamp
We’re convinced they’re one and the same. Wings replaced by tails, but angels no less. They seem to follow us wherever we go. They bring us companionship, an immediate sense of happiness, and on this particular day, guidance.
Together, we’ve not yet had a dog to call our own, but somehow on the road they all seem to belong to us. When in Georgia, it was never long before we had a friend or two accompanying us on our long walks. When we made our trek to Mount Kazbek, we never expected to have two brave doggos tag along and lead the way. But the longer we traveled, the more we learned to expect the unexpected and that is exactly what we got.
These two crossed our paths somewhere on the walk to the start of the trail. Chasing cows, digging through the dumpster looking for breakfast, and as eager to start their day as we were. Once we said “hello” their tails sprung to life and they aborted mission breakfast in exchange for adventure.
Usually dogs give up after following us for awhile if we aren’t doling out treats. These two, however, were persistent. Up the trail to the Trinity Gergeti Church we went as a group. We weren’t inside terribly long, but as we exited, these two champs stood up from their comfy lounging spots and continued by our sides.
The Glacier
Although our legs were beginning to ache, our trek up to the church had already felt like a page out of a fairytale. At this point, we easily could’ve turned back towards town and left feeling satisfied. But at least for this particular day, we decided not to be weenies and to keep pushing forward for a better look at the glacier that was cascading down Mount Kazbek. We had read that it was worth the journey and since we had already come this far – to Georgia, to Kazbegi, to the church… what was a few more hours of hiking?
There was no easing our way into this portion of the hike. Once we descended from the church, the first segment of trail was a steep uphill climb fading into a pocket of thick trees. We disappeared into the trees, unaware of the series of steep climbs that awaited us on the other end.
One after another, we dragged our tired bodies up the peaks before us only to find another waiting just beyond it. We wandered over rocky terrain, grassy meadows, and narrow flower-lined footpaths. Every moment of triumph followed by one of defeat. In those moments, we stopped, laid-back, nibbled on our snacks, and somehow convinced ourselves to keep moving forward. One step at a time. We’d come this far. If our four-legged companions could carry on with nothing more than a breakfast scoured from the dumpster to sustain them, surely our carb-laden khinkali feast could power us through.
Eventually, we crested our final peak. The one with the view of the glacier. Nothing had ever looked so good. The four of us stood in awe, exchanging congratulatory hugs and belly rubs. Snapping photos while secretly hoping to find some sort of zipline back to town. But no such luxury exists.
There was, however, an oasis in the form of a construction crew offering us hot beverages and snacks. We happily tucked our cameras away and joined them for a hot coffee. It is easy to overlook how something as simple as a cup of coffee can bring so much comfort. Then one day you find yourself shaking, shivering, and sore all over on the side of a mountain. Even if it is served in an old noodle cup, it then seems magical. Have we mentioned how hospitable the Georgian people are?
The trail does continue onwards (for another hour or so) to the base of the glacier. There, hikers will find a campsite to grab water, snacks, and a place to sleep. This is generally where serious hikers hoping to scale Mount Kazbek will stop for the night. We, however, figured a view of the glacier was good enough for our legs that were now more akin to Jell-O blobs. We decided to call it quits for the day.
Where we Stayed
The number one place in all of Kazbegi, and probably Georgia, is Rooms Hotel. Regarded as one of the most beautiful places to lay your head at night. Marveled over for it’s remarkable view of Mount Kazbek and offering up delicious meals to boot. If you’re here on a vacation where cost isn’t a factor, this is probably the place for you. The rather hefty price tag didn’t fit into our backpacker budget, so we turned to our trusty friend, Airbnb.
For less than $20/night we stayed in a cute little mountain hut. It had everything we needed for a short stay. A hot shower, a kitchenette, a comfy bed. And the views – they may not be regarded as the best in the city, but they were pretty damned good in our opinion. We loved starting our morning off wrapped in a blanket on the porch with a cup of coffee, just admiring the mountains.
If you’re new to Airbnb, click here for a discount on your first stay.
Play it Safe
Hopefully one day, we will all get back to travelling again. When the time comes don’t be caught without insurance. If there is one thing we learned in 2020 it was that if it can go wrong, it probably will.
So we cover our butts with World Nomad’s travel insurance.
Final Thoughts
We went to Georgia for the wine. We always go for the wine. Every destination has its appealing qualities, and for us, wine has always been a factor. A justification in a sense, that a visit is as much for career enhancement as it is for leisure. So when we discovered Georgia was (arguably) the oldest winemaking region in the world, our tickets were as good as bought. But the wine? Well, that was just the trailer. A tease for what this magnificent country would offer. It’s what secured our interest.
But outside of the capital city, the land in which the wine is grown – vast, varied, and strikingly idyllic. It’s worth a long journey in and of itself. Even if you’re not up for the trek to Mount Kazbek, at least take the journey to Kazbegi and breathe in the fresh mountain air for a few days. You couldn’t possibly regret it.
Cheers friends,
Megan + Matt
