The Best Street Eats of Central Vietnamese Cuisine

For the first time in our lives, we were millionaires. On our arrival to Vietnam, we withdrew ONE MILLION dongs from the ATM. Our fists were full but our bellies were empty and like always, our first mission was to explore the local food scene. Vietnam is known around the globe as a foodie’s paradise and within moments of arriving, our nose knew this to be true. The central Vietnamese cuisine is comprised of plenty of aromatics, fresh picked herbs, and age-old secret family recipes.

We spent two months in Da Nang and Hoi An expanding our waistlines in attempt to sample as many of the local dishes as possible. Below are some of the most popular and widely eaten dishes from the region.

Traditional Central Vietnamese Cuisine

Cao Lau

Cao lau is the utmost traditional dish of Hoi An and it can’t be reproduced anywhere else in the world. The ingredients used to make this dish are what make it so special, down to the water. This dish is comprised of Lau noodles, bbq pork, pork crackling, lettuce, herbs and a spoon full of sauce. The noodles must be made from local fresh rice, not older grained rice.

The reason the water is so special is that it must come from the Ba Le well located in Hoi An Ancient town. The well was believed to be dug by the Cham people in the 10th century. The water is then mixed with ash from certain trees that grow on nearby Cham Island. This process gives the noodles their yellowish color and firm texture.

After the noodles are topped with thinly sliced marinated roasted pork, the dish is finished with a few herbs and lettuce, a crisp made of sesame seeds and a sweet and salty sauce. The dish is then ready to devour. A bowl of cao lau can be enjoyed at many street carts and stalls for 20,000-30,000 VND (.86-1.29 USD). Just look for the plastic table and chairs.

Banh Xeo

Our obsession with the crispy Vietnamese pancakes, better known as bahn xeo, started in Da Nang. Every Sunday morning we would walk to the local market to scour our produce for the week and to enjoy brunch with one of the vendors.

During our first encounter with bahn xeo, we weren’t sure what we had ordered or how we were supposed to eat it – so we observed the other diners. Banh xeo, pronounced like bon zay-oh, translates into “sizzling pancake” and that is exactly what sound it makes as it is being prepared. The batter is comprised of both corn and rice flours and just enough turmeric to earn its beautiful yellow hue. The batter is poured into a pan containing hot oil that makes the pancake sizzle and sing. Shrimp, pork, and bean sprouts are added as it begins to crisp up, turning this carbo-loaded dish into a protein packed meal.

The pancakes alone would make for an intriguing dish, but what really makes this meal irresistible is the hands-on way it is eaten. Banh xeo is presented with a plate of fresh herbs, rice paper for rolling, and a peanut dipping sauce. All food is better with a dipping sauce and this central Vietnamese staple is no exception.

When Matt and I moved to Hoi An, what was once our weekend treat became somewhat of a daily necessity. Follow along in the video below as we head to our favorite restaurant in Hoi An. Watch as we order up a plate of banh xeo to share.

If you’re in Hoi An, stop by our favorite restaurant, Bao Phuong! Order a Saigon and the banh xeo. We promise you’ll be back the next day like we were.

Mi Quang

Easily one of our favorite dishes in town with its rich complex broth just bursting with flavor. The dish originated in the Quảng Nam Province. This central Vietnamese noodle dish has everything you could want. The noodles are soft and chewy and topped with bits of pork, shrimp and quail egg. The broth is made of roasted bones and fish sauce giving it a robust flavor that coats every noodle perfectly. On the side you will get a plate of herbs, lettuce and lime along with a crisp sesame pancake. The dishes can vary slightly from place to place so you will just have to try a couple to pick your favorite. The prices can range from 20,000-60,000 VND (.86-2.59 USD).

White Rose Dumplings

These beautiful little dumplings can be found on the streets or in one of the many central Vietnam higher end establishments. The difference between the two is about 50,000 VND (2.16 USD) and for that, you get a plate. The recipe for these dumplings is a carefully guarded secret and is only known by one family in Hoi An. They supply all of the white rose dumplings for the city. The water for these dumplings once again comes from the special Ba Le well.

The dumplings take just a few ingredients but make for a great snack or appetizer. They are made with two small rounds of rice paper and a filling of either meat or shrimp. When they are steamed the edges start to curl, leaving them to resemble a white flower. After finished steaming they are topped with crispy shallots and accompanied by a dipping sauce of shrimp stock, lemon, hot chilies and sugar. The local name for this dish is Banh Bao Vac, while white rose came from the French after they saw them and thought they looked like flower petals. 

Com Ga

Chicken and rice – it is a classic combination found on plates across the globe. But in Vietnam, the locals have their own spin on how this traditional duo is served up. Any visitor to the country would be remiss not to park their behind on a little red stool to order up a plate or two of com ga.

A staple of central Vietnamese cuisine, it is impossible to walk down any side street without seeing a display of signs offering com ga and an eager host ready to serve it. The rice itself is a thing of beauty. It is prepared in chicken broth and brightened up with the addition of turmeric. Topping the rice is the star of the show. The chicken, or “ga” as it is known in Vietnam, is shredded and mixed with an assortment of herbs such as coriander and mint. Finally, no plate of com ga would be complete without the addition of shredded papaya and carrot for a much needed crunch. A dish of com ga can be found on average for 40,000 VND (1.72 USD).

PW&A’s PSA : For the best restaurants, keep an eye out for the condiments available on the tables. Fresh limes and oil with garlic and chilies is a good indication that the food will be high quality.

Final Thoughts on Central Vietnamese Cuisine

In addition to the food listed above, Vietnam is home to the bahn mi. Also known as the-best-walking-sandwich-ever! We certainly had our fair share of them during our time in central Vietnam. If you’re in Hoi An, you can’t miss the late, great Anthony Bourdain’s favorite spot, Bahn Mi Phuong. Vegetarians, however, should head to Bahn Mi Queen, because that was hands down the best veggie sandwich.

Leaving Europe behind, we worried we would suffer from cheese withdrawal. Sure, the allure of hand-pulled noodles and broths only a grandma could produce were lurking ahead of us – but cheese! In the end, it did cross our minds from time to time, but the variety and freshness of the food in Vietnam kept us more than satisfied. The central Vietnamese cuisine is not at all spicy, unlike it’s nearby neighbor Thailand, but its flavor game runs strong.

We’re no longer millionaires, but the Vietnamese cuisine was worth every last dong it cost us!

Cheers friends,

Matt + Megan