There is so much to love about Tbilisi that we often half-jokingly refer to it as our second home. It’s the one place we keep returning to, and for good reason. Not only does it live up to its reputation as an amazing food and wine destination, but it’s also surrounded by more natural beauty than many other cities we’ve visited over the years. With a quick cable car ride, taxi, or short hike in any direction, you can quickly be immersed in nature. Tbilisi offers the perfect setting for indulgence without the guilt, thanks to its numerous hiking trails. During our extended stays in the city, we have focused on hikes to the west, up Mtsaminda Mountain. This area is high above Tbilisi, where the air is clean and the views are breathtaking.
Turtle Lake to Mtsaminda Park
There are three ways to get to Turtle Lake.
The first, and easiest, is to order a car through a taxi service like Bolt and go straight there. This option will save you time and some energy for the hike itself.
The second option is to hike to the starting point. If you’re looking to burn a few extra calories while hiking in Tbilisi, this is the method for you. This route includes a steep uphill ascent. Head through Vake Park and climb the staircase on either side of the old fountain. Continue up to the statue where you’ll find the trailhead just to your left. These days, the trails are well-marked with yellow arrow signs noting the time and distance to the possible destinations.
The third and final option is to ride the cable car. This is our preferred method for its efficiency and scenic views. Be warned, you may feel like clowns in a cable car, crammed in with other passengers. The entrance to the cable car is located on the street, just outside of Vake Park.
Once You Arrive at Turtle Lake
Now that you’ve found your way to Turtle Lake, it’s time to make your way to the trailhead where the real fun begins. To get there, walk past the line of restaurants and descend to the path that circles the lake. Facing the lake, you’ll want to follow the path to the right until you find the large map board showing the trail markings. The trail is just beyond this, and you can’t miss it.
This trail wastes no time, ushering you up a steep incline from the onset. Within just a few minutes you’ll be high above the city and treated to panoramic views stretching all the way to Chronicles of Georgia and beyond. Once you make your way to the switchback, the trail will start to level out, and you will see more yellow trail markers pointing you in the right direction.
A couple of hours and a little bit of sweat later, you’ll arrive to Mtsaminda Park, where you can reward yourself with a ride on the Ferris wheel and an ice-cold beer. Rides and beer not your style? That’s okay, head down the tourist trail and through the city to one of our favorite wine bars in Tbilisi.
Tourist Trail
Like Isaac Newton said, “what goes up, must come down.” From Mtsaminda Park, one of the easiest methods of getting back to Tbilisi is a ride on the funicular. It’s a great option for those ready to quickly get back to the city and start doing what matters – eating khinkali and drinking wine. The ride lasts about 25 minutes and drops you off at the base of the mountain. From there, it’s about a 15-minute walk (493m decline) to Rustaveli Ave.
However, if you haven’t burned enough calories yet and want more of an immersive experience with a few more spectacular views, two hiking options back to Tbilisi are available. The first one goes along the same path as the funicular, passing Mama Daviti Church (Mtatsminda Pantheon). This hiking path is comprised of many stairs. The second, and much longer, option ends in the old city. Finding these trails is easy. Follow the path with the funicular building to your left and exit the metal gates, leaving the park. Once out of the park, walk across the parking lot past the taxi drivers. On the edge of the lot, near the trees, you will see the brown sign indicating “tourist trail.”
Botanical Gardens
Less of a hike and more of a walk, but it’s still worth mentioning for anyone with limited mobility or someone just trying to get their steps in without having to dodge delivery scooters. Just behind Mother Georgia in the Tsavkisis-Tskali Gorge, you will find almost 400 acres of winding trails, 4,500 different plants from around the world, and a picturesque waterfall. The garden was first referenced by Jean Chardin, a French traveler, as the Royal Garden in 1625, and later survived the Persian invasion in 1795. After its restoration in the early 19th century, it officially became the Tbilisi Botanical Gardens in 1845. The garden has two entrances. Its main entrance is located at street level by the Narikala Fortress and the second entrance is at the top of the cable car to Mother Georgia.
Lisi Lake
Lisi Lake sits at 700 meters above the city, where the air is clearer, the sun burns brighter, and the children can run free. Around the lake, you will find a 3km paved path, a few places to grab food and drinks, and a thermal bath house. After your laps around the lake, relax in one of the many grassy areas with plenty of tree cover. The lake is just a 10-minute drive from the Saburtalo metro station.
Mountain Biking Trails
If you want to do some “hiking” in Tbilisi with two wheels and a lot more speed, there are a few newly built downhill tracks starting from Turtle Lake. The new single tracks are full of berms for fast-flowing action, drops, and jumps. There are varying levels of difficulty, but none are recommended for beginners. Some of the cable cars have bike racks, making it easy to get your bike to the starting point.
If you don’t have your own bike, check out Georiders by Lisi Lake. They have modern, good-quality bikes for rent by the day or by the week. Georiders also offers biking trips that get you outside of the city for some epic riding.
Final Thoughts
There is generally no better way to see and get to know a city than to get out and just start walking. While Tbilisi might be more closely associated with cultural and foodie experiences, it’s also a great place to do some hiking. With a relatively mild climate, the trails can be enjoyed at all times of the year. In our most recent visit in January, we encountered a few muddy areas and patches of snow after a recent storm, but otherwise the paths were clear and very enjoyable. Happy hiking!
Cheers friends,
Matt & Megan
