It’s been almost four years since we were supposed to land in Portugal for the first time. Through Workaway we connected with winemakers who agreed to host us for one week in northern Portugal. Unfortunately, we all know how 2020 turned out. For us, that meant cancelled flights, disrupted plans, and no entry into Portugal. But alas! We’ve just returned from our week in northern Portugal where we celebrated Matt’s 40th birthday. Instead of a Workaway volunteer trip, our stay was purely based on pleasure! Our hands were spared getting dirty. Our feet, however, basked in all the red-skinned glory.
One Week Itinerary in Northern Portugal
With so many intriguing destinations to choose from, it wasn’t easy to pare down where we wanted to spend our time during our week in northern Portugal. We narrowed it down to the north, rather than trying to include the Algarve as our first victory. We decided that would give us good reason to return in the future.
With a name like Port Wine and Adventure, it should come as no surprise that a few days in the Douro Valley was non-negotiable. It is the home of port wine and incredibly beautiful to boot! We also knew that seafood was high on our wish list so that meant hugging the coast for a good portion of our time. For a northern Portugal itinerary, flying in and out of Porto certainly would have been more convenient, but Lisbon ended up being much cheaper – so that’s what we did.
Our itinerary for our one week in northern Portugal was as follows :
Lisbon -> Obidos -> Douro Valley -> Matosinhos -> Aveiro -> Lisbon
Transportation
Getting around Portugal is easier than I thought. As far as countries go, Portugal is on the small side. Most of the major cities are well-connected by public transport and it is very doable to get around without a car of your own by using the affordable train network. However, we always enjoy the freedom of having our own set of wheels. The ability to make a pitstop in an unexpected place is always a bonus.
How else might we have stumbled upon the Buddha Eden Garden of Peace? It was well worth a visit with only 6 euros/pp to enter. For a moment, we thought we might be back in Vietnam.
Having a car also gave us the ability to stock up on essentials like bottled waters and wine from local grocery stores. We saved loads of money avoiding the premium costs at convenient stores by using this method. Additionally, we were being joined by two friends for most of our journey and the price of gas/tolls vs purchasing train tickets individually was a significant savings!
Renting A Car
There are many different car rental options to go with once landing in Portugal. Some companies are available for pickup right from the airport. More budget-friendly options are available off-site, just a short shuttle ride away. As budget travelers, we did opt for one of these cheaper options. Ultimately, we did save quite a bit of money but we paid the price with our time. We rented from Global-Rent-A-Car which we had no issues with in terms of quality of vehicle or the personnel. The only warning we will give is that you may be waiting awhile if you go this route. From the time we arrived at the pick-up location, we waited for two hours before we made it to the front desk and signed for our keys. We also understand this was not an unusual occurrence, so weigh your options carefully 🙂
How was driving in Portugal?
It was a question whose answer I worried about before our adventure. I’d read about the narrow roads and steep hills made of cobblestone. Upon arrival, we found this to be true – but not everywhere. We intentionally avoided bringing the rental car into the city of Porto, opting to stay in the nearby suburb of Matosinhos for easier parking options. We also returned our car before settling into Lisbon for the last two nights of our trip. The highways in Portugal were very easy to navigate, clearly marked and wide enough to fear an easy collision. We also noticed there were many, many tolls along our route, but most of them for less than a euro. By the time we returned our car we had racked up just over 30 euros worth of tolls, which was less than I anticipated for our week in northern Portugal.
As for the smaller towns, the roads were very narrow – often time big enough just for one way traffic. I was happy Matt volunteered to be our driver for the trip and he was happy to have a small car. Driving into the high terrain of the Douro, we were quite nervous seeing the driveways into the quintas. The hills were so steep and at seemingly impossible angles, but fortunately ours was manageable.
As it should be, drinking and driving is taken very seriously in Portugal. Since we knew port wine and other Portuguese specialties were on the menu, we used our car only to get from city to city. Once we arrived at our destination, we either walked or used rideshare apps to get around. Calling an Uber is inexpensive for the short distances and we highly recommend this option!
Obidos
Located just a one hour drive from the Lisbon airport, the town of Obidos made the perfect first stop on our one week northern Portugal itinerary. An old medieval fortress town, for most people this is just a quick stopover on a day trip from Lisbon . As for us, it was where we finally caught up on our sleep after crossing the Atlantic.
What to do?
We arrived in the afternoon as the thickness of the crowds started to wane. Hordes of tourists show up by the busload everyday to wander the alleys and savor the sights and bites of this small town. By evening, no trace of them remains as the once filled streets empty to near silence. Once we checked into our accommodation, we sat down to sip on espressos and enjoy the views of the castle walls, watching as the day trippers returned to their buses.
We continued our afternoon with our own stroll along the walls, ignoring Matt’s fear of heights as we made our way around the perimeter. Word to the clumsy – WATCH YOUR STEP! The stones here are slippery, even when dry and can be dangerous if you’re not careful. We managed to avoid a tumble of our own but watched another young lady get a bit banged up with one wrong step.
Renowned for being the original home of ginjinha (sour cherry liqueur), we would have been remiss to not sample some of the sweet, packs-a-punch good stuff. Walking through town, you’ll find many vendors offering sips of their ginjinha from little chocolate cups. Instead of waiting in line with the tour groups for a sample, we tucked into a tiny unassuming bar called Ibn Errik Rex. Large decanters of the ginjinha were plopped in the middle of each of the few tables. Quirky decor could be seen in every direction. After talking with the owner, we learned that most of the street offerings are mass produced, but what he pours is made in house! This place is definitely worth stopping to imbibe.
Where to dine?
There are several great dining options. Walking through the town we saw plenty of restaurants offering fish, pastas and other food. There are several little bakeries for a quick snack.
I made dinner reservations for Jamon Jamon which turned out to be absolutely delicious!
We dined outdoors in a little courtyard situated just beneath an avocado tree. We sipped on a bottle of Vinho Verde and picked out a few of the tapas from the wonderfully curated menu to share. Each bite was more delicious than the next. Fried cuttlefish, tempura green beans, beef cheeks and octopus. I wish we could have saved room to try the dessert, but alas there was only room for one more glass of ginjinha before bed!
Douro Valley
The Douro – the main attraction for us. It was something we’d been dreaming of visiting for a very long time and what better excuse than Matt’s 40th birthday? The drive from Obidos was just under 3 hours so very doable without spending most of your day in a car.
Where we Stayed
As we were there on celebration, we wanted to stay somewhere a little nicer than our usual budget hotels which is how we ended up at Quinta Do Tedo. This B&B consistently receives high ratings and after staying there, we know why. The staff was remarkable, the views unparalleled, and the wine – well, chef’s kiss to that.
In case you were wondering what the best view from a toilet around the world looks like, here’s a really good contender. If you’ve found better, let us see it in the comments 🙂
Included in our stay we were able to partake in a tasting at the quinta. Based on the quality of their wine, this is a huge tourist hotspot. Many busloads of people show up for the tastings here – but as guests of the B&B ours was private and very enjoyable.
What to do?
Obviously, the main attraction here is WINE! Most people come to the Douro via a group tour that leaves from Porto. For us, we wanted to wake up among the vines and sip port late into the evenings so we opted to stay here for two nights!
One of the vineyards that we visited was Quinta Dos Frades which is walkable if you’re staying in the town of Folgosa. Our tour guide was as sarcastic as they come. We had a pleasant experience and enjoyed the wines this estate offered.
There are dozens of quintas to choose from and two days would never be enough to see them all. It is also important to know that getting around the Douro Valley is dangerous without a sober driver. We learned the hard way that the rideshare apps are not available in this region of the country. If not driving yourselves, you will be forced to use the taxis to get around. The staff at our hotel was able to contact cars for us. Unless you are based in the towns of Pinhao or Regua where the taxi stands are located, this can become pricey. When the drivers collect you, the mileage from when they leave those towns will be counted towards your final bill.
Aside from sampling the wines, there are ample opportunities to hike through vineyards, enjoy picnic lunches or take a cruise along the Douro River.
Where to Dine
There are probably as many wonderful places to enjoy a meal as there are quintas to pour you a glass of wine. As for us, we enjoyed our two mornings of breakfast overlooking the terraced vineyards from our hotel’s restaurant. We indulged in fresh-baked bread with meats and cheese. There was yogurt with seasonal fruits and even a cake for a touch of something sweet. We also enjoyed a dinner one evening at the hotel restaurant, Bistro Terrace. The food was excellent and everyone loved their meal.
For lunch, we celebrated Matt’s birthday sitting on the river at DOC Douro. This was as far removed from budget as we could possibly be, but it was worth every euro cent we spent! This restaurant offers a few different 7 course tasting menus, each exquisitely prepared to perfection. We chose different options so we could sample all that there was to offer. There is a choice to pair wine with each course, but as we still had a long day ahead we settled for two glasses of bubbles to start and a glass of wine to have with our meal.
Unbeknownst to the restaurant, our meal also came with a side of entertainment. Somewhere around the third or fourth course a gang of pants-less men on jet skis showed up to show off. Our server noted that this was unusual. We highly suspect it must have been a group celebrating a stag party so don’t count on it during your meal!
For dinner, we booked the harvest event at Quinta Da Pacheca which happens only during the grape harvest each fall. It started off in their tasting rooms where we were poured samples of their tawny and ruby ports among others. From there, we headed into where the magic happens, where grapes start their transition from fruit to wine.
At Quinta Da Pacheca, among other producers in the region, the wine is still produced the old-fashioned way. By stomping. Large vats filled with grapes are crushed under the weight of human force. Legs lifted high into the air and then released onto the fruit below. The staff gave us shorts and a shirt to change into before we climbed into the vats and participated in ancient ritual. If you have the “ick factor” about all those feet touching your wine – fear not! All of the potential bacteria is burned off during the fermentation process.
Our grape stomp concluded with a traditional dinner set at a long table adorned with flowers. We enjoyed flavorful beans with sausage followed by a fish course, a meat course, and even dessert. Two for the birthday boy, complete with a round of singing.
Matasinhos
Just 1.5 hours from the Douro, Matosinhos is a nice alternative to the hustle and bustle of the big city of Porto! As we came to understand, many Porto locals actually come to Matosinhos to get away from the crowds and enjoy lovely meals by the sea. Our intention was to not only avoid parking issues in Porto, but to also give surfing a try! Unfortunately, we were too chicken to brave the chilly waters that were peppered with sharp rocks. Although this did seem like a good place for beginners to dip their toe into the sport. If you have an interest in learning, adding Matosinhos to your one week in northern Portugal itinerary wouldn’t be a bad idea.
What to Do?
Aside from the many surf schools which we actively avoided, this is a great town to enjoy a laid-back vibe and sip beers or wine from one of the many beachside cafes. The price of a pint is significantly higher to be so close to the water, but in our opinion worth it for the views. If you want to save a little money, head a street or two back into the neighborhood for more local pricing.
A trip to Matosinhos would not be complete without a long walk on the beach, so get your walking legs out and prepare to rack up the miles. Our friends were less than thrilled (but good sports) about our insistence to continue along the shore. The rocky coast makes for a beautiful spot for photos, especially at sunset.
If you’re into sardines, the nearby fish factory offers tours and the option to package your own tin to take home. We shortly considered this but couldn’t be convinced to leave the cafes long enough to try this experience. Let us know in the comments if you make it there and if we missed something great.
What to Eat?
Seafood, duh. It doesn’t get any fresher. Menus were chock full of sea bream and sea bass and of course sardines. For dinner one night we dined at a place that even offered skate on their menu. Two of the four of us ordered and it was divine. Matt sampled the sardines, and while tasty was definitely more effort to eat than the skate. Also on the table, prawns and calamari. All fabulous.
For a budget alternative, head to the local grocery store. One of the most popular in Portugal is called Continente. There, pick up a couple snacks like cheese and meats and a baguette. Add some olives and a piece or two of fruit. A bottle of wine and you have the perfect snack to eat while watching the sun set over the ocean.
Aveiro
Down the coast just a short drive from Matosinhos is Aveiro. This town is often referred to as the “Venice of Portugal.” The reference is because of how the canals wind through the urban landscape and the Romanesque architecture seen throughout. It is a great place to spend the night on your one week trip in northern Portugal.
Where we Stayed
There are likely many options on where to stay within the city limits of Aveiro itself, but because we made a semi-last minute booking our choices were limited. Instead, we found ourselves settling into a 2-bedroom apartment in the small coastal fishing town of Costa Nova. This quiet little fishing village was a whimsically decorated peaceful retreat best recognized for its colorfully-striped houses.
When we inquired with one of our taxi drivers why the houses were painted this way, he told us it was from long ago when the fisherman would stumble in late at night, often in the fog. They had a bad habit of wandering into the wrong homes and the solution was to paint the houses in different colored stripes to help them find where they live.
What to Do?
No stay in Aveiro is complete without a ride in the traditional longboats, called “Moliceiros.” These boats were once a necessary part of life in Aveiro as they were used to harvest algae until the 1960s when chemical fertilizers were used as a replacement. Today, these boats are mainly used for tourism. We paid 12 euros per person for a 45 minute ride up and down the canals, glimpsing views of the nearby salt flats and listening to a guide tell us a bit about the city as we passed different monuments.
Another fun thing to do in Aveiro is to add a ribbon to the friendship bridge. According to a local, this is far superior to the lock bridges such as the one in Paris because for weight reasons and as he says “it is easier to remove if the relationship dissolves!” If you visit Aveiro, look for our yellow ribbon that says “TEAM CERVEZA!” aptly named for our group’s shared love of beer.
When you’re tired of moving about, look for the central alley lined with cute little beer and ice-cream shops to get out of the sun and have a refreshment. We were all amused by the trending bowls of ice-cream that resemble Italian pasta dishes that graced the menus. Apparently that’s a thing!
What to Eat?
If you haven’t filled up on spaghetti carbonara ice-cream and glasses of sangria, order up one of the Portuguese specialties, like a bifana or the franseschina. When on the coast, you can never go wrong with more seafood! We enjoyed our last meal sitting on the water’s edge with whole grilled fish, fish soup and garlic prawns.
A regional treat special to Aveiro is the Ovos Moles. It is a delicate pastry made of egg yolks and sugar. We never tried these on their own, to the dismay of our taxi driver who raved of them! We did, however, have them incorporated into a walnut cake to finish dessert one evening! Very tasty when paired with a glass of port or Beirão.
Lisbon
The biggest city in Portugal and the opportunities are endless! We spent such a short time here we didn’t even begin to scratch the surface of what is available. I am thankful after having stayed here that we left the car behind before we arrived. The parking on some of the streets here was insane. The drivers must be very talented to parallel park in such tight and upright positions! Walking the hills was a good workout for our legs as well – a week later and my glutes still ache.
Where we Stayed
We stayed in the Rossio Square at the Liberator Rossio Hotel. The area was very convenient and we walked everywhere we went from this location. Our room overlooked the fountain, making it the perfect final destination for our one week in northern Portugal. Our beds here were very comfortable as well. No breakfast available at the hotel was the perfect excuse to head out and eat the popular pastel de natas.
What to Eat
Everything! Yes, luckily there are plenty of shops to buy new pants because the food here is worth taking home an extra pound or two as your souvenir. Finding a bad meal was challenging but I don’t recommend you try.
We started our mornings off with the pastel de natas and americanos at Fábrica da Nata just a few minutes walk from our hotel. It’s a popular spot and for good reason. The pastries are fresh and still hot out of the oven when you get your order. The photo above was taken at our lounge in the Lisbon airport with our last taste of these lovely eggy treats.
For dinner, I must recommend one of the highlights of our gastronomic tour through northern Portugal. That is Cervejaria Ramiro. As seen on Somebody Feed Phil, this was some of the freshest and most succulent seafood we have ever tasted. And we’ve done a lot of fishing in the Florida Keys! The restaurant always has a long wait, so show up early and bide your time with beer until your number is called and it is time to feast. The restaurant serves only seafood and garlic bread to mop up all of its delicious drippings.
Another must do is have dinner at a restaurant that also has a Fado performance. We spent our last evening in Portugal dining while being serenaded with moody and powerful music. Even our server got in on the action and surprised us all with his deep, strong voice.
We ended our vacation with one final nightcap before heading to bed. In Rossio square we found a number of stalls selling everything from melty cheese and prosciutto sandwiches, sausages of all sorts, to sweet desserts. Naturally, we headed to the booze stand for one last taste of ginjinha for the ladies and Beirão for the men. The latter being a Portuguese liqueur that Matt learned to love!
Final Thoughts
If you’re considering a one week trip to northern Portugal, go for it! We had a lovely vacation and would highly recommend it to a friend! And while you’re there, eat as much seafood as possible. And don’t forget to wash it down with a glass (or two) of port wine!
Cheers friends,
Meagan & Matt
