As the train pulled into the station in Moravska Nova Ves, we hoisted our heavy backpacks onto our tired bodies and trudged our way onto the empty platform. Like always, our heads were on a swivel attempting to figure out our surroundings and plot our next move. Usually this involves spinning in circles and trying to decipher which direction the arrow in Google Maps is pointed. If you know, you know.
Two 360 degree turns later, we heard a man’s voice calling out to us. When we looked up from our phones, there he was – sitting on a bicycle and peddling our way. It was our Airbnb host coming to greet us.
Apparently that’s the small town way. At least in Moravska Nova Ves.
A Hearty Welcome
As if his big smile and enthusiastic waving wasn’t enough to show his excitement at our arrival, his eagerness to assist with our bags left no room for doubt. It’s always a pleasant surprise to be greeted by an Airbnb or Workaway host at the station. The relief of being rid of a heavy bag or two is always appreciated. Usually we just throw them in the trunk. Once, in Vietnam, we watched as our host on a motorcycle tucked them between his legs. The fact that in this particular situation, our luggage was being stored in a bicycle basket added a certain element of humor.
A Surprise Visit to the Wine Garage
Before our arrival we mentioned to our host that we had a fondness for all things beer and wine. And with that in mind, he planned a surprise stop for us. It was a small winery in town. Like most of Moravska Nova Ves, the winery was operating out of a local’s personal garage. This one in particular specialized in a red wine derived from a grape native to the area.
The owner of this winery was scrambling to get her own luggage together as she prepared for a trip overseas. Nevertheless, she led us up to her rooftop veranda and poured us mammoth-sized glasses of wine. By the third time she topped off our glasses, I giggled to Matt that I was getting tipsy. We had not eaten any lunch yet. The next thing I know, a heaping plate of snacks appeared in front of us.
We sat up there for close to an hour, admiring the views over this town we just recently discovered. We still had much to learn over the next few days, but sitting there, unexpectedly on the veranda, surrounded by wine and an abundance of hospitality, we were already pleased with our choice of destination.
About Moravska Nova Ves
If you’ve never heard of it before, we don’t blame you! We hadn’t either. Amid planning our trip to Czechia, our focus was on Prague. As it turns out, Prague ain’t the cheap trick she used to be – at least not for backpackers nearing the end of their journey (i.e. low on funds).
In attempt to save a few dollars, we scoured Airbnb for more affordable places to stay until our flight to Tbilisi. That’s when we came across Moravska Nova Ves.
It is a quaint village located in South Moravia and situated nearby the Austrian and Slovakian borders. South Moravia is a very historical place known for its plentiful vines and wine-making territory in the Czech Republic. The village itself houses a large volume of independent winemakers which operate from their many colorful garages. Wandering through the town, we delighted in the sheer number of barrels, grape presses, and wine-themed statues decorating the front lawns.
Moravska Nova Ves even has claim to its very own red wine that was developed, grown, and cultivated directly in the village. The specific type of red wine is called Cabernet Moravia. And yes, it is delicious.
Aside from the wine to be found in this small village, it is ideally located. This location serves as a launch pad for exploration around South Moravia’s larger cities, renowned vineyards, and historical features.
Important to Note
This truly is a quiet village. The kind that’s best for curling up with a bottle of wine and good conversation. The kind made for long walks and escaping the noise of the more populated areas. It’s quirky. It’s unexpected. It makes for the perfect stopover between larger destinations to recuperate while exploring new grape varietals.
Day Trips From Moravska Nova Ves
If you’re seeking wine-centric adventures, you’ll most definitely want to explore beyond the limits of Moravska Nova Ves. With any luck, you’ll land a hospitable host eager to assist in your planning just like we were.
Wine Tasting in Valtice
Just a short 45 minute train ride from Moravska Nova Ves is the town of Valtice. Here, you’ll encounter a slightly larger and livelier place. It’s chock-full of pubs, restaurants, and most notably, a Baroque Castle that’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wander around the grounds, explore the interior, possibly catch a filming in progress, or (like us) make a beeline straight for the cellar full of wine with of the most unique tasting experiences.
Salon vín ČR – Národní vinařské centrum
Our host tipped us off to the wine salon before we even arrived to his home and we are so thankful that he did. It has since become a favorite memory from our time backpacking.
The Salon vín ČR, found in the cellar of the Valtice castle, holds an annual competition for the best wines in all of the Moravia and Bohemia regions of Czechia. For a very reasonable price, we were given two wine glasses and free range to read about and sample the top 100 wines selected from the country that year. After two hours of more swirling and sipping than tasting and spitting, we somehow managed to make our way onto the correct train back to Moravska Nova Ves.
If you find yourself in Central Europe, this is a must-see for all wine lovers!
Uherské Hradiště
Another travel suggestion by our handy host. We arrived to this not-so-small town in Southern Moravia just as almost every shop boarded up its doors for holiday or (more than likely) the impending doom of the worldwide pandemic.
One of the few places that was actually open also happened to serve our favorite meal while in Czechia. We hurried into U Blaznive slepice – a bistro located in city center and just a few minutes walk from the train station – with just enough time to snag the last available table. We toasted our good fortune with a round of pivos (beer) while dissecting the menu. To start, a beautifully presented plate of beef tartare. It was the perfect precursor to our entrees which consisted of another round of pivos alongside confit of duck leg and spicy pork ribs with pickled peppers. Just the kind of stodgy, stick-to-your-ribs faire you might expect while dining in Czechia. We highly recommend this restaurant – even though it was our only choice that given day. If you happen to visit post Corona Monster, you will have an array of dining options.
With little left to occupy us after that delicious and “heart-healthy” meal, we opted to return back to Moravska Nova Ves. During our lunch, we discovered the next train wasn’t departing for several more hours. Rather than sit on our butts or wander aimlessly, we hightailed it to the neighboring town, Stare Maestro. Just a brisk, 50 minute walk away gave us access to a much larger station with more frequent departures. The walk connecting the two towns was a straight shot down the main road, giving us ample sightseeing opportunities along the way.
Getting to Moravska Nova Ves
Like most of Europe, Czechia is well connected, both domestically as well as with its nearest neighbors. Whether you’re coming from Prague, Brno, Vienna, or Bratislava, you’ll want to make your way to Breclav. There, you will change trains for one heading to Moravska Nova Ves. But don’t get too comfortable, you’re only two stops from your final destination.
Where to Stay in Moravska Nova Ves
To say your options for where to stay are limited would be, well, a vast understatement! The town is comprised of little more than a few small grocery stores, a handful of restaurants/bars, a bakery, and a circuit of passionate wine-growing neighbors. All to say, it’s likely the Hilton won’t be moving in any time soon.
To snag a safe place to call home for a few days, Airbnb or similar service is your best bet. We had excellent luck with our host. In a place where little information is readily available on the internet, there’s no better source of knowledge than a conversation with a local. For an extra wine-themed experience, try to book a stay in a room above one of the local wine garages.
Farewell Finale
As if providing comfortable accommodations, assisting with our weekly itinerary, and introducing us to the locally produced wine wasn’t enough – our host guaranteed a lasting impression of Moravska Nova Ves on our final night in town. His family’s quaint backyard – a treasure trove of native plants, wild cats, and children’s play things by day, seamlessly transformed into a romantic, moon and firelit concert venue by night.
The headliner? Our host. A warm-up yodel followed by the best darn rendition of the Czech National Anthem we’ve ever heard. To our excitement, his lyrics were accompanied by the free-reed instrument, the concertina. One bottle of Moravian wine and several sets later, we closed out the evening with the ever-popular, Country Roads. This time, not by John Denver or some drunken slob in a karaoke bar, but by our very own solo artist under a blanket of Czechia stars.
Final Thoughts
If there has been one common theme throughout all of our travels, it’s that deviating from the original plans makes for the most unexpected and memorable moments. Moravska Nova Ves was no exception to that rule. It was our lack of money that led us there but it’s the hospitality and abundance of wine that has us clamoring to return one day.
Cheers friends,
Megan + Matt
Comments
What an amazing village to find! Sounds like a great gem you found.