It’s been over five months since we first touched down in Marrakech. This spring, we flew into the “Red City” in our quest to explore the magical country of Morocco. Unintentionally, a comprehensive review of our visit was put on the back burner as we weren’t sure how to quite sum up our experience.
Prior to our visit, we had visions of breathing in and sampling the exotic spices at the market. We pictured ourselves unveiling intensely flavored tagines and riding into the sunset on the back of a camel. Okay, this is all starting to sound like the north African version of a Maybelline commerical, but bear with me. We knew this would be a chaotic country full of activity but we completely underestimated how much energy it would zap from our beings.
Matt and I certainly enjoyed our time in Morocco. We were lucky enough to start our journey with a lesson in Moroccan cuisine and we did climb aboard a couple of camels, albeit not at sunset. We are thankful for the imprint the people and places of Morocco left on our memories, but that being said – we will need a little time to recuperate before we are ready to return. But one day, hopefully we will. There is still plenty of the country left for us to explore.
Originally we intended to stay for two weeks in Morocco, but due to some unforeseen events with our Workaway family, we ended up cutting our time in half. If there is one thing we have learned so far in our journey, it is flexibility. The best part of our time abroad has been the people we have met and formed connections with along the way. Those people will always take precedence over plans.
Without further adieu, here is how we spent our one week in Morocco.
Day 1 : Casablanca
We arrived to Marrakech via a layover in Casablanca. Rather than spend an ungodly amount of hours hanging around the airport, we decided to take the short train ride into the city for awhile. Our first introduction to Morocco was overwhelming. From the train station we set out to find the medina with high hopes of street eats that would leave us drooling for more. What we found instead was ourselves with no cash! We had serious trouble first finding an ATM and then accessing our cash once we did. Frustrated and hungry, we spent most of our time in Casablanca searching for money and had little time left to enjoy the food we were so excited about.
The lesson for you? Don’t be like us! Get the local currency at the airport, train station, or the first ATM you come across and save yourself from a frantic search for cash. In Morocco, the currency is the Moroccan Dirham. It is a closed currency which means you can’t get your hands on any until you arrive in the country and once you leave you won’t be able to exchange it. Try not to take out too much cash towards the end of your trip or you will be scrambling at the airport to spend it on local wines, like we did, before your departure. Worse things could happen.
Now, the good parts! Just when we were ready to give up all hope and head to our connecting plane tired and hungry, a local man spotted us. He must have seen it in our eyes. The need for something hearty and delicious. The man was selling soup from a large pot outside of an empty storefront. It was hard to discern what exactly was in this soup and he must have sensed the skepticism on our faces. Without skipping a beat, he ladled a small amount into a bowl and handed it to us to try. My fearless foodie husband took the first bite.
A simple “mmm” escaped from his lips.
With no further words spoken, he went back for seconds. And just like that we were ushered inside to a quiet little table where we quickly depleted our bowls. At the time we had no idea, but during the rest of our stay in Morocco, we learned that the soup, called harira, is a very popular dish. Nearly every meal will begin with a bowl of harira as it is thought to whet your appetite for more.
With little time to spare, we started to head back to the train station. That’s when I spotted it: A small stand with a huge line. The crowd clamored for attention, holding their coins high above their heads. The almost sickly sweet smell wafted through the air. The stand was selling what resembled doughnuts, hot from the fryer and dipped in sugar. I basically pleaded to Matt for us to stop and grab a bite. We were short on time and he’s not big on the sweets. However, a large group of locals gathered in front was my ticket to dessert. What was being served must be good to draw that many people!
The group was more like what you’d see at a rock concert than a check-out line. People pushing their way to the “stage”, it was far removed from a single-file orderly line. Unable to speak the language, we were passed over many times while trying to place our order. I tugged at Matt’s arm telling him we could leave, but my determined husband stood firmly in place with his coins held high like the others.
Eventually, a nice local man who spoke English grabbed the attention of the guy behind the counter and we finally got our treat. We carried our sweet bread and a piping hot mint tea (our first of many) to a standing room only table that we shared with a few locals. Ahh, totally worth the wait we thought as we glugged down our last drops of the warm, minty delight. Lesson learned: if there is a line, there is usually a good reason for it. Wait it out!
Finally we winded our way back to the train station, being extremely careful not to get run over. It didn’t take long to realize crossing the road in Morocco is a feat all its own.
Days 2 – 3: Exploring Marrakech
Landing in Marrakech
The flight from Casablanca was very short. Matt nodded off, which is a rarity for him in the sky. Me, however? I was treated to the sounds of a neighboring lady snoring loudly into my ear.
The plane slammed into the runway, jarring my husband awake. Together, we dragged our tired butts off the plane and headed straight for baggage claim. With our late arrival time, we were excited to know we had a driver waiting for us on the other end. Unfortunately, we suffered a ridiculously long delay at baggage claim thanks to some tourist stomping her foot on the emergency brake of the luggage belt.
Our introduction to driving in Morocco
Thankfully our driver waited out the delay and didn’t leave us stranded, like that time in Zambia. Quickly approaching midnight, the three of us hurried across the parking lot only to discover our driver’s car had been nearly trapped by other vehicles. The sweat grew on the driver’s brow as he tried to wiggle his way out of the spot. The minutes ticked by and it was clear his attempts were becoming more futile. Luckily, a few local men came along and were able to assist our driver. They circled the car, waving their hands then abruptly signaling to stop. Yelling what sounded like “SED! SED! SED!” over and over again which we imagined meant go, go, go. It was like watching a choreographed scene that very well could have ended in extensive damage to a vehicle. Eventually we were freed.
The ensuing car ride was equally thrilling. Quick acceleration, even to stop signs and red lights is a must. We felt like we were in a real life mash-up of Mario Kart and Frogger.
Where we stayed
When in Marrakech, staying in a riad is a must. These are basically just houses that have been turned into private rooms for tourists. Many are elaborately decorated in tiles and colorful fabrics. Each one unique, yet unmistakably Moroccan. Riads can be found in the range of budget to uber fancy. A few extra dollars will upgrade your stay significantly. For the first few nights, we stayed in a cute little riad in the heart of the medina. It was run by a mother and her two sons – one of which was kind enough to wait up for us on our very late arrival.
Be sure to check on Airbnb when looking for your riad. There are plenty of beautiful places to choose from.
Faim D’Epices Cooking School
On our second day in Morocco, we signed up to attend a Moroccan cooking class located just a short car ride from the medina. You can read about our full experience here. It was one of the highlights to our time in Marrakech and would definitely recommend it to anyone interested in food.
Shopping in the Souks
We spent our third day in Marrakech just winding through the medina and soaking up our surroundings. Stepping into the narrow alleyways in the busiest parts of the day is nothing short of chaotic. If you are prone to sensory overload, this is probably not the place for you. Walking along, we shared our pathways with pedestrians and donkeys pulling big carts of bread. The streets are packed and if you aren’t paying attention, your foot is likely to be run over. The shop owners are all sitting on crates outside of their stores, trying to entice you to buy their souvenirs. Most of the time, it’s very tempting. We regretfully passed up too many silver tea sets and colorful ceramic plates.
Our main objective on this day was to find a pair of linen pants for me and a scarf for Matt. We needed these items for our upcoming overnight stay in the desert. We successfully scored both items at a reasonable price after haggling a bit. Never accept the first price that is thrown out or you’ll be paying way more than you need to.
While in the souks, we also picked up a bag of mixed nuts. Dried fruits and nuts are aplenty here and they were so delicious.
One of the highlights though, was right before we entered the souks. Just prior to the north entrance, we spotted a small barbershop that caught Matt’s attention. Desperately in need of a quick shave, he hopped into the chair to get cleaned up. Fifteen minutes and a handful of Moroccan dirhams later, my husband was looking and feeling brand new.
Day 4 – 6 : Merzouga Desert Tour
Early on the morning of Day 4, we were picked up from our riad by our private driver for a much anticipated overnight stay in the Merzouga Desert. You can read about our full experience of the tour here.
This was one of the highlights of our trip as it allowed us to see beyond the walls of the city and experience the raw nature of Morocco. If you are planning to be in the country for more than a few days, this is a must on any visit.
Jemaa el-FNA Square
On the evening of Day 6, we were returned back to Marrakech in time to grab some dinner at Jemaa el-FNA square. During the day, this place is filled with juice stands and ladies offering henna tattoos. By night? Chaos ensues. The square comes alive with rows upon rows of pop-up tents serving dinner of all kinds. Fancy a goat head? Head to stall 23. If chicken skewers or little sausages are what you’re craving, just keep moving and you’ll spot them. If you’re not prepared, this place can be severely overwhelming as each stall is actively vying for your business. Men will use tactics of all kinds to lure you into their restaurant, including to follow you a few stalls down begging you to come back. While it can be very “in-your-face” there doesn’t seem to be any malice or ill-intention.
Aside from the food stalls, keep an eye out for snake charmers and trained monkeys. My very terrified-of-snakes husband nearly ended up with one wrapped around his shoulders. Once they land their monkey or snake on you, you’ll be forced to pay up.
Whatever you do, don’t try to sneak photos of the monkeys. We witnessed a girl being harrassed by a man looking through her camera, insisting she owed him money for pictures she stole. Unfortunately, this was a big deterrent to us bringing out our camera and snapping as many pictures as we normally would have.
I did, however, manage to snap this one from the hip in the middle of an interesting game the locals were playing. They were using fishing poles attempting to land a ring around the soda bottles. Presumably, the soda would have been their prize if they succeeded.
Day 7 : Rabat, Morocco
On Day 7, we made our way to Rabat, Morocco via the train from Marrakech. It is very easy to find a taxi for a ride to the ONCF railway station. It shouldn’t cost more than 5 euros for the short drive, but do make sure to confirm the price before ever getting into any taxi. Hopefully you can find one with a working meter, but that wasn’t the case for us. It seems most of the drivers like to keep their transactions “off the record”.
When you arrive at the ONCF railway station, be prepared to pay in cash for your tickets. While there were signs posted saying they accepted credit cards, every machine was mysteriously out of working order.
A few hours later, we stepped off the train into the capital city of Rabat. Located right on the ocean we had both the breeze and the beautiful water views to enjoy as we made our way on foot to our next airbnb.
Where we stayed
Once again, we opted to stay in a riad. This time, it was actually just outside of Rabat, in nearby Sale. Riad La Porte Du Bouregreg was our favorite stay in all of Morocco. The male host is a French man who married a native Moroccan woman. With his wonderful sense of hospitality paired with her amazing traditional Moroccan cuisine, this place was top-notch.
We wish we would have booked a few nights here so we could have enjoyed all of the amenities. They offer cooking classes, massages, and other spa treatments.
What to do in Rabat
If you have a few days in Rabat, there seems to be plenty worth exploring. From medieval fortified cities to beaches and tombs. A quick Google search can give you more details on all of that. But if like us, you only have one night to enjoy the city, head straight to Le Dhow.
Le Dhow is a wooden boat restaurant and lounge with one of the best views in Rabat.
We originally intended to dine in the restaurant before heading down into the lounge. After looking at the pricing and food offering inside the restaurant we scrapped those plans and went straight to the lounge for happy hour pricing and burgers. For the first time in Morocco, we found a cheap place to have a few cocktails. Needless to say, we took full advantage before heading back to our riad for the night.
Rather than taking the long walk across the water from Rabat to Sale, hop aboard a small boat working as a sort of water taxi. There is no set price, you just hand the captain whatever amount you feel is fair before disembarking.
Day 8 : Farewell Morocco
On our final morning in Morocco, we woke up early enough to enjoy one last Moroccan breakfast. The ingredients were mostly the same as the days before – bread, bread, and more bread. With a side of jams, olives, fruit, yogurt, and eggs if you’re lucky. While mostly the same, it just tasted better here.
Our riad was located just a few kilometers from the airport and the owner was kind enough to give us a lift. Just one of the personal touches we loved about this particular riad.
Rabat-Sale International Airport
Though international, this is a very tiny airport. You won’t need to allow too much time here before catching a flight. Getting through security was a breeze so we had plenty of time to relax before boarding our plane.
Luckily, this airport boasts a lounge allowing access to Priority Pass holders. Lounge access has been vital to our calm existence on travel days. It is hard to believe we spent so many years not hip to this knowledge. Most lounges allow a less crowded space to relax, charge your devices, and grab a bite to eat. Most of them even serve alcoholic beverages which has saved us an enormous amount of money we’d typically spend in the public areas of the terminal. At this particular airport, no alcohol was served in the lounge – but we were able to indulge in one last mint tea before leaving Morocco.
If you are a frequent traveler and haven’t done so already, consider signing up for your own Priority Pass membership.
Final Thoughts
Although our senses were working overtime in Morocco, we are grateful to have experienced this beautiful part of the world. Sometimes we felt like nothing more than walking dollar signs, but other times we were delighted by the energy and the vibrant spirit of the people. The medina of Marrakech is a dizzying world of its own and something you’d be remiss to not experience at least once in your life. If you enter with an open mind there is plenty of opportunity for enjoyment. As with any major city, just be aware of your surroundings and keep a close eye on your belongings. And because things can and will go wrong, make sure to never leave home without travel insurance. We use World Nomads to cover our butts.
When you travel to Morocco, take the time to leave the medina. While it is an iconic experience of any trip to Morocco, the country has so much more to offer. Our limits were tested in the medina by the overaggressive tactics and non-stop activity, but just outside of those historic walls is an entirely different atmosphere.
And one fun fact before we close – did you know you could go skiing in Morocco? We didn’t but it just may be what brings us back to the country.
Cheers friends!
Megan + Matt
